Mechanical versus quartz

The movement (or “caliber”) is the heart of the watch—it drives the hands and all the complications (date, chronograph, etc.).

There are three main types of movements: manual winding mechanical, automatic mechanical, and quartz.

Here is a complete explanation of each, with their advantages and disadvantages.

1. Mechanical movement with manual winding

Principle

This type of movement operates thanks to a mainspring that is wound manually using the crown.

The stored energy is released gradually and regulated by an escapement (balance wheel and hairspring).

Advantages

• Pure watchmaking tradition: appreciated for its craftsmanship and the beauty of its mechanism.
• No batteries required: operates solely on mechanical energy.
• Aesthetics of movement visible through a transparent background (often highly elaborate).
• Durability: can operate for several decades if properly maintained.

Disadvantages

• Daily manual winding required (usually every 1 to 2 days).
• Less accurate than quartz (often ±10 to ±30 seconds/day).
• Fragile when exposed to shocks and magnetic fields.
• High cost due to the complexity of the mechanism.

2. Automatic mechanical movement

Principle

Works on the same principle as a manual movement, but winds itself automatically thanks to a rotor (oscillating weight) that rotates with the movements of the wrist.

Advantages

• Permanent autonomy if the watch is worn regularly.
• Mechanical expertise and high watchmaking value.
• No batteries to replace.
• Ease of use: no need to worry about winding it up every day.

Disadvantages

• Less accurate than quartz.
• Sensitive to inactivity (stops after 1 to 3 days without being worn).
• Expensive maintenance (service recommended every 4 to 6 years).
• Higher weight due to the rotor.

3. Quartz movement

Principle

A battery powers an electronic circuit that sends a current to a quartz crystal.

This crystal oscillates very regularly (32,768 times per second), regulating the movement of the hands via a stepper motor.

Advantages

• High accuracy: often only ±10 to ±20 seconds per month.
• Low manufacturing cost.
• Low maintenance (battery needs to be replaced every 2 to 5 years).
• Resistant to shocks and temperature variations.
• Lightweight and slim, ideal for modern watches.

Disadvantages

• Less noble in the eyes of enthusiasts (little or no visible “mechanics”).
• Battery dependency.
• Limited collector's value.
• Electronic lifespan sometimes shorter than high-end mechanical watches.

4. Other modern variants