The different materials

Watchmaking materials have evolved considerably over time, moving from brass and steel to ceramics and high-tech composites.

Each material has its own mechanical, aesthetic, and symbolic properties, influencing the weight, strength, price, and durability of a watch.

Here is a comprehensive overview of the materials used in antique and modern watches, along with their advantages and disadvantages. 

1. Materials used in antique watches

Brass

• Use: main material for movements and sometimes cases in the 19th and 20th centuries.
• Advantages:
  • Easy to machine and polish.
  • Good corrosion resistance.
  • Excellent conductivity for internal components.
• Disadvantages:
  • Quite malleable → wears out over time.
  • Tarnishes (greenish patina).
  • Requires plating (gold or chrome) for an attractive appearance.

Gold (yellow, pink *, white)

• Usage: cases, hands, hour markers, and decorations.
• Advantages:
  • Unalterable (does not rust).
  • Highly malleable → ideal for engraving.
  • Timeless aesthetics and a symbol of prestige.
• Disadvantages:
  • Very expensive.
  • Soft metal: scratches easily.
  • Heavy (especially in solid gold casing).

Silver

• Use: dials, antique cases.
• Advantages:
  • Beautiful shine, warm color.
  • Good thermal conductivity.
• Disadvantages:
  • Tarnishes when exposed to air (oxidation).
  • Relatively soft → deforms.
  • Rarely used today.

Steel (stainless steel since the 20th century)

• Usage: cases, bracelets, screws.
• Advantages:
  • Strong, durable, corrosion-resistant.
  • Good value for money.
  • Shock and water resistant.
• Disadvantages:
  • Heavier than titanium.
  • Scratches easily if not treated.
  • Requires regular polishing to maintain its shine.

Email

• Use: dials for high-end vintage watches.
• Advantages:
  • Colors do not fade (do not yellow).
  • Unique artisanal aesthetics.
• Disadvantages:
  • Fragile (breaks easily).
  • Complex and costly manufacturing.

2. Materials used in modern watches

Titanium

• Usage: cases, bracelets, screws, buckles.
• Advantages:
  • 40% lighter than steel.
  • Hypoallergenic.
  • Highly resistant to corrosion and impact.
• Disadvantages:
  • More difficult to machine → more expensive.
  • Matte gray appearance, less shiny.
  • Can scratch more easily than polished steel.

Ceramic

• Usage: cases, bezels, bracelet links.
• Advantages:
  • Scratch-resistant, highly wear-resistant.
  • Lightweight and comfortable on the wrist.
  • Stainless and inert to the skin.
• Disadvantages:
  • Brittle (risk of cracking if dropped).
  • Expensive to produce.
  • Difficult repair.

Carbon / Composite / Forged

• Usage: sports watches, aviation, diving.
• Advantages:
  • Ultra-lightweight and highly rigid.
  • Impact and heat resistant.
  • Modern and technical appearance.
• Disadvantages:
  • High manufacturing cost.
  • Rougher finishes.
  • Sensitive to UV rays if untreated.

Sapphire (synthetic crystal)

• Usage : verres de montres.
• Advantages:
  • Virtually scratch-resistant (9 on the Mohs scale).
  • Perfect clarity.
  • Resistant to temperature changes.
• Disadvantages:
  • Breaks under violent impact.
  • More expensive than mineral glass.

Recent innovative materials

In summary