The manufacture of a watch (especially a mechanical one) is a complex process, combining microengineering, craftsmanship, and high precision.
Here are the main steps in the manufacture of a watch, followed by a detailed description of each one:
1. Concept and design
Description:
It all starts with the design of the watch, which includes:
- Aesthetic design (case, dial, hands, strap, finishes)
- Technical architecture (type of movement, complications, case size)
- The choice of materials (steel, titanium, gold, ceramic, sapphire, etc.)
Objective:
Strike a balance between aesthetics, ergonomics, and technical feasibility.
Engineers and designers use 3D software (SolidWorks, CATIA) to visualize each component and anticipate mechanical constraints.
2. Movement design
Description:
The movement is the heart of the watch (often referred to as the “caliber”).
It can be:
- Manual winding mechanism
- Automatic (with rotor)
- Quartz (with electronic oscillator)
Key steps:
- Calculation of gear ratios to ensure time accuracy.
- Definition of functions: date, chronograph, power reserve, etc.
- Creation of micrometric plans for the manufacture of each part (gears, springs, escapement, balance wheel, etc.).
Objective:
Ensuring reliable, precise, and durable movement — often tested on simulators before being machined.
3. Manufacturing of components
Description:
The parts are machined, cut, or molded from high-quality metals or alloys.
Examples:
- Bridges and plates: machined from brass or steel plates.
- Gears: laser-cut or electro-eroded.
- Spiraux and balance wheels: made from specific materials such as Nivarox to resist temperature and magnetism.
Objective:
Obtain components with extremely low tolerances (often < 0.01 mm).
4. Finishing and decoration
Description:
A highly valued step in luxury watchmaking.
The surfaces of the pieces are polished, angled, and decorated by hand.
Standard techniques:
- Côtes de Genève: wave-like patterns on the bridges.
- Perlage: small circles on the plates.
- Beveling: edges polished by hand.
- Gravure: logos, serial numbers, signatures..
Objective:
Combining beauty, prestige, and protection of surfaces against oxidation.
5. Assembling the movement
Description:
Watchmakers assemble the movement by hand, piece by piece, under a binocular magnifying glass.
This includes:
- Installation of gears and springs.
- Careful lubrication (with special watch oils).
- Adjustment of the exhaust and balance wheel.
Objective:
Create a perfectly functional and fluid movement.
A movement can contain between 100 and 600 parts, or even more for complications.
6. Manufacturing the case and dial
Case:
- Machined and polished according to the original design.
- Tests for water resistance, strength, and fit of the case back, crown, and crystal.
Dial:
- Made of brass, enamel, mother-of-pearl, or other materials.
- Application of indexes, logos, decorations, and luminova (for nighttime readability).
H ands:
- Cut, polished, and often hand-painted.
7. Casing (final assembly)
Description:
The finished movement is inserted into the case.
The watchmaker:
- Position the dial and hands.
- Close the case back.
- Put on the strap.
- Performs alignment and leak checks.
8. Adjustment and quality control
Description:
Each watch is tested to ensure accuracy and reliability:
- Timekeeping: variation in running in different positions.
- Water resistance: pressure tests.
- Autonomy: measured running time.
- Impact and temperature tests: for resistance.
Some watches are certified by organizations such as the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute).
9. Packaging and shipping
Description:
Approved watches are cleaned, placed in their cases, and accompanied by their certificates, manuals, and warranties.
They are then shipped to distributors, stores, or end customers.
Would you like me to draw you a diagram or a clear infographic showing these steps (in the form of a watchmaking diagram)?
This would make the process more visual and structured.